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DINING OUT: The Brewster Inn

High-end Cazenovia brunch spot lives up to hype with elevated dinner, too

By Julie McMahon

 

The Brewster Inn is located in a Gilded Age mansion on the edge of Cazenovia Lake.

Knowing The Brewster Inn was a legendary Cazenovia brunch spot, we decided to try it for dinner — and found it lives up to its award-winning reputation with elevated service and delicious cuisine.

The appetizers were the stand-out part of the meal.

Right from the beginning, we were offered bread for the table, which we accepted, to later find there was a charge for this ($7). We were delighted to have a large slice of focaccia with basil dipping oil, which had a punch of basil flavor and high-quality extra-virgin olive oil. The focaccia itself was soft, fluffy and light, and the portion was so much that we didn’t finish it by the end of the meal.

We also ordered sweet potato potstickers ($18) and French onion gratinée ($15) for starters.

For our second entrée we tried the brown butter poached lobster risotto ($55).

The potstickers were tender, sweet dumplings with a soft pillowy middle and fresh noodle. The balsamic drizzle on top was tangy. The dumplings were served with cabbage and a few roasted peanuts, which added crunch to the rather soft dish. This was simple but delicious.

The gratinée was a piping hot soup, beefy and salty in flavor, with melted swiss that added nutty flavor and buttery texture. The soup had a great rich flavor, and we wolfed it down between the two of us very quickly.

For our beverages we enjoyed a glass of Merlot from Washington ($13), and a Mass Riot IPA ($10), a local favorite. Both were as good as we expected.

We found that the service took a little extra time than we expected, but it was a busy Friday night and our server was attentive and professional, and frequently stopped by, even if just to say she’d be back soon.

Focaccia with basil dipping oil is served at the Brewster Inn.

We took in the gorgeous space of The Brewster Inn, located in a Gilded Age mansion on the edge of Cazenovia Lake. The restaurant features several rooms and an outdoor area heated by lamps. The elegance of the decor captures the “inn” experience, from the entrance with guest concierge to the gift shop and well-appointed restrooms.

We sat in the room with the bar (about 10 seats long) which features a huge wall-length wine rack. The room had a lively, festive feel but it was easy to hear each other and enjoy conversation.

When our server made it to our table to discuss specials, we were especially impressed as she rattled off an extensive list of specials, including steaks, seafood, a lamb & duck mixed dish and a pork chop entrée. This was remarkable given the already full menu offered. The main menu had a lot of seasonal influence with ingredients like cider, apples, brown butter and spinach. There are several gluten-free options and some selections for vegan and vegetarian eaters. These dishes are clearly marked on the menu.

Sweet potato potstickers ($18): tender, sweet dumplings with a soft pillowy middle and fresh noodle.

Before our entrées arrived, we were served an amuse-bouche, a bite-sized raspberry mint sorbet. This was a lovely little treat and the cold, minty feel on our palettes gave a quick reset to our taste buds.

Our entrées arrived quickly. We ordered the fall harvest salad ($14) with the addition of a 4-oz. filet mignon ($18), which came cooked as ordered, seared nicely and with a little pink in the middle.

Each bite of the salad had a nice hearty combination of steak, cheddar, apple, spring mix and frizzled onion. This was a delectable salad, and the menu offered several appealing seasonal salads that were easily customizable with four proteins (steak, chicken, salmon or shrimp). We debated which one to try after being drawn to them initially on the menu.

For our second entrée we tried the brown butter poached lobster risotto ($55). This came out with a heaping pile of lobster meat, subtly sweetened with brown butter and oh-so tender. The parmesan risotto had a strong cheese flavor. This was definitely made for cheese lovers, and the risotto was mixed with a lot of butter, which was delicious but very dense and rich. We struggled but enjoyed trying to finish this large portion ­— and ended up with a box to take home.

Finally, after such a thoughtful, fulfilling meal, we felt we must end with dessert.

I ordered a lemon drop martini ($13) to top off the meal as well and found this to be the perfect balance of sweet and sour. The liquor had a nice lemon flavor itself, and the sugar rim was a tasty addition to each sip.

We were again impressed when our server ticked off a broad list of dessert specials on top of the regular dessert menu offered. Though we were very tempted by the butternut squash crème brûlée (‘tastes like pumpkin,’ our server said), we ultimately decided on a simple slice of raspberry pie a la mode. It did not disappoint. Sweet but tart, the seeds and turbinado sugar on top gave the pie a lot of texture. The whipped cream and ice cream served on the side were good as well.

The only downside of dining here seems to be confronting the bill at the end of the meal. Clocking in at $194, the cost was as much as we expected, and not more. For three-plus courses and drinks, we felt the total was fair. It’s worth splurging on The Brewster Inn, and we’d highly recommend it for a special occasion or elegant date night.

 

The Brewster Inn

6 Ledyard Ave., Cazenovia, N.Y. 13035

315-655-9232

www.thebrewsterinn.com

Restaurant Hours:

Monday – Thursday, 5 – 8 p.m.

Friday – Saturday, 5 – 8:30 p.m.

Sunday Brunch, 10:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Sunday Dinner, 3 – 7 p.m.